In Paris, I tour the cafés where Parisians sip wine and coffee, and seek out where legendary artists worked.
A Balzac A Rodin, at the top of Boulevard Montparnasse
Many of the big
name literary cafés are on the Boulevard Montparnasse. A newspaper said of the
Montparnassians, they 'sleep in the morning and afternoon, and spend the
evening upon the terraces of the Dôme, the Rotonde, the Select, and other
neighbouring cafés. They have dark circles under their eyes and read parts of
Ulysses.'
In La Closerie
des Lilas, Hemingway worked on The Sun Also Rises and F. Scott Fitzgerald
complained his novel The Great Gatsby was not selling.
Kiki de Montparnasse sings at the cabaret (Brassai 1934)
The original
Jockey club is synonymous with artists' model Kiki. It's where she sang and became a muse to many. Hemingway in his introduction to her
memoirs Kiki de Montparnasse said, 'She
never had a room of her own and never was a lady at any time. But for about ten
years she was as close as people get nowadays to being a Queen, but that of
course is very different from being a lady.'
It's Kiki who graces some of Man Ray’s most iconic images.
Le Violon d’Ingre (Man Ray 1924)
Saint-Gemain is
where Hemingway first stayed after his arrival in Paris, and where he would get into the habit of stopping and writing a short story.
'After writing a story I was always empty and both sad and happy, as though I
had made love.'
Hemingway didn't
seem to like anyone. But he called Joyce, 'The greatest
writer in the world.'
The real place of
worship for the literary nerd is the Odéonia/ Saint-Sulpice area, where Sylvia Beach had her bookshop, the original Shakespeare and Company.
Also popped into Amelie's café inMontmartre , and said hello to Oscar Wilde and Marcel Proust in the Père
Lachaise Cemetery .
Facts from this blogpost were taken from a great book: Walks in Hemingway's Paris by Noel Riley Fitch.
Also popped into Amelie's café in
Facts from this blogpost were taken from a great book: Walks in Hemingway's Paris by Noel Riley Fitch.
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